Famous as the birthplace of the 16th-century painter El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos), this quiet, compact village, which measures only about 600 yds by 200, is still very traditional, although it now has a number of souvenir shops lining the main street. Determined local women ply their trade of lace-making while you watch and hopefully buy. Despite several car parks, the streets are often cluttered with the cars of the many tourists visiting an authentic Cretan village for lunch or sightseeing. Fodele is located on the N coast of Crete, 18 mls NW of Heraklion, 21 mls NW of Heraklion airport and 33 mls E of Rethymnon. Fodele is inland from the coast, in a verdant valley complete with a small river; surrounded by steep mountains, pastureland, olive groves, orchards and farms. The beach lies 1¾ mls to the N, set on a sheltered bay.